How to Prevent Paper Wasps from Building Nests on Your Spring Branch Home

If you live in a warm weather state, you’ve probably encountered paper wasps. These yellow and black insects are often mistaken for hornets but are actually a type of social wasp.  Lots of people call them yellow jackets, even though they are not the same species. They are beneficial for your garden but paper wasps can be a nuisance when they decide to build a nest on your property. Their presence not only poses a risk of stings but also creates an eyesore and can lead to a larger infestation if left unchecked.

What Are Paper Wasps?

Paper wasps (genus Polistes) are a type of social wasp that builds their nests out of paper-like material created from chewed wood fibers mixed with saliva. The nests are typically umbrella-shaped and can be found in sheltered areas such as eaves, roof overhangs, attics, and garden sheds. Paper wasps are most active during the late spring and summer months, with peak activity during warm weather.

While these wasps are generally not aggressive unless provoked, they can become a serious concern if they decide to build a nest near your home. The nests grow in size as the season progresses, and they may harbor hundreds of wasps. If you or a family member accidentally disturb the nest, the wasps will defend it, leading to painful stings.  They are more aggressive when guarding the nest.

Why Should You Prevent Paper Wasps from Nesting on Your Home?

There are several reasons why it’s important to prevent paper wasps from building nests on your house:

•  Risk of Stings

While paper wasps are not as aggressive as hornets, they will sting in defense of their nest. Their sting can be painful and cause allergic reactions in some individuals. Multiple stings can lead to more severe reactions, including anaphylaxis, a life-threatening condition that requires immediate medical attention.  Even if you are not allergic, it still hurts!

•  Nuisance

A wasp nest on your house is not only a safety concern but also an unsightly nuisance. You may not want to live with the constant fear of encountering these stinging insects near your front door, windows, or patio.  I have seen paper wasps build a nest on a front door, making it very difficult to just “ignore” them.

•  Increased Infestation

A single nest may seem manageable at first, but if left alone, it can grow rapidly. Paper wasps are social insects, and their colonies can expand as the season progresses. By the end of summer, a single nest can house hundreds of wasps.  On properties that have not been treated before, I have seen nests the size of softballs with 40-50 wasps on it, and 8-10 of those nests around the property. 

How to Prevent Paper Wasps from Building Nests on Your Home

Fortunately, there are several effective strategies you can use to prevent paper wasps from building nests on your property. The key to success is being proactive. Here are the most effective methods:

•  Regular Home Inspections

One of the best ways to prevent paper wasps from building nests is by regularly inspecting your home. Wasps often seek out sheltered, undisturbed areas for nest building. Common places where you might find wasp nests include:

• Eaves and soffits: These areas provide excellent shelter for wasps to build their nests.
• Roof overhangs: Wasps will often settle on the underside of roof overhangs to take advantage of protection from the elements.
• Chimneys and vents: Paper wasps can easily build nests inside unused chimneys or ventilation ducts.
• Gutters and downspouts: Areas that are hard to reach or rarely cleaned can offer ideal nesting sites.
• Underneath Staircases: These sheltered areas keep them dry and safe

Inspect these areas frequently, particularly during the spring and early summer months, when paper wasps are actively building their nests. Catching a nest early when it’s small can save you from a bigger infestation later on.  All those little white bulbs on their nest contain new wasps which will hatch eventually.

•  Seal Gaps and Cracks

Wasps can enter your home through even the smallest gaps or cracks. To prevent paper wasps from finding a way in, seal any gaps or cracks around windows, doors, rooflines, vents, and chimneys. Use caulking or weatherstripping to fill in these openings, and ensure that window screens are intact. This is a simple but effective way to block wasps from gaining access to your home and establishing a nest inside.  I had a customer with wasps upstairs in the beginning of spring and they were coming from an open flue on the fireplace.

•  Hang Decoy Nests

Wasps are territorial creatures, and they often avoid nesting near other colonies. By hanging a decoy wasp nest in your yard, you can trick paper wasps into thinking the area is already claimed. This simple method can be an effective deterrent for preventing wasps from building nests on your home.

You can purchase decoy nests online or make your own. To create a homemade decoy nest, simply take a paper bag and crumple it into a round, ball-like shape. Hang it in a visible spot near your home where you’ve noticed wasps in the past.

•  Use Wasp Repellents

There are several natural repellents you can use to deter paper wasps from building nests on your home. Many of these repellents work by creating an unpleasant scent that masks the pheromones wasps use to communicate with each other. Some popular natural repellents include:

• Peppermint oil: Wasps dislike peppermint oil, and it can be used to make a DIY wasp repellent spray. Mix a few drops of peppermint oil with water and a small amount of dish soap, and spray it around areas where wasps are likely to build their nests.
• Cinnamon: Wasps are also repelled by cinnamon. You can sprinkle cinnamon powder around areas where you want to discourage nesting.
• Citrus: Wasps dislike citrus scents. You can use citrus peels or make a citrus-based spray to deter them.
• Botanical Professional Products: Essentria, EcoVia EC, and some other brands of products have essential oils already mixed in them for home use.  They are very effective against wasps, as a repellent or a spot spray.  It will coat the wasps in the oils and kills them very quickly.

Essential oils like eucalyptus, citronella, and tea tree oil are also effective natural repellents. These oils can be mixed with water and sprayed around your home to prevent wasps from settling.

•  Install Screens on Vents and Chimneys

Paper wasps often target chimneys, vents, and other openings as potential nesting sites. Installing fine mesh screens on vents, chimneys, and attic openings will keep wasps from accessing these areas. It’s important to check these screens regularly to ensure that they are in good condition and have not been damaged by wind or weather.  Like I mentioned earlier, I have found wasps entering houses from open chimney flues once winter is over.

•  Paint Eaves, Soffits, & Porches Blue

I didn’t believe it when I first heard about this but I have had customers paint the ceilings of porches and eaves sky blue and wasps won’t build there because it looks like the sky. I have some customers who have never had a wasp build there, not even once. 

•  Remove Existing Nests Promptly

If you discover a wasp nest on your property, it’s important to remove it as soon as possible, especially during the early stages of nesting. A small nest is much easier to deal with than a fully developed one.  Get a one gallon pump sprayer or a hose-end sprayer and mix a wasp spray using essential oils or a professional product labeled for wasps.  My favorite is EcoVia because it has multiple essential oils in it and it drops wasps fast so I don’t get stung.

Important: If you are dealing with a large nest or if you are allergic to wasp stings, it’s safest to call a professional pest control service to remove the nest. If you attempt to remove the nest yourself, be sure to wear protective clothing and use a long pole to avoid getting too close to the nest.

•  Use Traps

There are commercial wasp traps available that can help reduce the number of paper wasps around your home. These traps use attractants to lure wasps in and then trap them inside. Placing these traps around your yard, especially near areas where wasps are frequently seen, can help reduce the population and prevent them from building nests near your home.  I have found that lots of these yellow sticky traps mostly catch mud daubers, which are not aggressive, but it is still worth a try.

•  Seek Professional Help (Alternative Pest Control to the Rescue!)

If you find that paper wasps are repeatedly building nests on your property despite your efforts, it may be time to call in a professional pest control expert. We have the tools and products to reach even the highest of nests and can eliminate a lot of wasps in one trip.  Reminds me of a house in Vintage Oaks Subdivision (New Braunfels, TX) that I treated last summer which had about as many wasps as I’ve seen on a newer house.  When I left there were at least 300 dead wasps around the perimeter!

Conclusion

Preventing paper wasps from building nests on your home requires a combination of vigilance, proactive measures, and natural deterrents. If you do find a nest, act quickly to remove it before it grows into a larger problem. By following these tips, you can enjoy a wasp-free home and reduce the risk of stings and property damage.

Cooler temperatures and shorter days means the critters of Texas will be looking for a warm place to stay during winter time.  With some proper preparation and exclusion work, you can avoid having unwanted guests during the holiday season.

1. Seal Entry Points

• Inspect Foundations: Check for cracks or gaps in your foundation and seal them with caulk or foam. Use copper mesh in weep holes, roofing gaps, or anywhere you’re trying to keep bugs out.
• Check Windows and Doors: Ensure all windows and doors close tightly; use weatherstripping or door sweeps if needed.  You can always add more and build it up slightly if you have big gaps to seal.  It’s also a bonus since it will help keep cold air out.
• Close Gaps: Look for gaps around pipes, vents, and cables entering your home. Seal with caulk or steel wool.  Remember that steel wool will rust within a few hours of moisture, so if it will be a visible area opt for stainless steel or another type of mesh or foam.
• Check Power/Cable Lines: Rats and squirrels can make their way from trees to your home by following the power lines to the roof.  Have them inspected periodically for gaps and cracks that may allow rodents into the attic.  Also check gable vents for proper mesh sealing and make sure there are no gaps in soffit vents, or soffits that are coming apart creating gaps.  Rats only need a gap the size of their head (3/4”) to fit their body through.

2. Maintain Your Yard

• Trim Vegetation: Cut back tree branches and shrubs that are close to the house, as they can provide pathways for critters.  Also look for broken or weak tree limbs that may fall during freezing weather.  A tree limb falling onto a roof means all the little varmints that live in that tree are on your roof now!
• Clear Debris: Remove piles of leaves, wood, or other debris that can harbor pests.  Blow or mow leaf piles so they do not provide shelter for bugs. 
• Keep Mulch Away: Maintain a distance between mulch and your foundation to reduce nesting spots.  Keep mulch light and avoid piling it higher than 4-6” so you don’t create moisture problems.
• Keep Firewood Away: Firewood should never be stored up against the house.  It should be at least 20-25 feet away to avoid all the wood destroying insects from infesting.  Even worse is when customers bring firewood into the living room for winter, bringing ants and termites along with it.  It is inconvenient but try to only bring in enough firewood for that day.

3. Store Food Properly

• Secure Pet Food: Store pet food in airtight containers and avoid leaving it out overnight.  I recommend customers keep pet food in hard plastic containers with strong lids year-round.  If you feed deer or other wild animals, it’s even more important to keep their food in super-sealed containers to keep raccoons and other scavengers from getting too close to your home.
• Seal Pantry Items: Use airtight containers for pantry staples and clean up spills promptly.
• Dispose of Waste: Keep outdoor trash cans tightly sealed and away from the house.

4. Create a Barrier

• Install Screens: Use fine mesh screens on vents and chimneys to prevent critters from entering.  Check the chimney flue to make sure it operates properly and will close all the way.  This helps keep cold air out and keep wild animals from entering.
• Check Gutters: Ensure gutters are clean and directing water away from your home to prevent moisture issues.  During ice storms gutters that are full of leaves and acorns will freeze and get really heavy and can let loose.  Ask me how I know!

5. Inspect and Maintain

• Regular Inspections: Routinely check your home for signs of pests, such as droppings or gnaw marks.  Use mesh around overhead garage doors since these doors usually do not seal very tightly.
• Check Storage Areas: Look in attics, basements, and garages for signs of pests or potential entry points.  Black lights are good for showing animal urine spots in those areas as well.  A cheap black light flashlight is a good tool to keep on hand.

6. Climate Control

• Adjust Temperature: Keep your home’s temperature consistent; extreme fluctuations can attract pests.
• Use Humidity Control: Use dehumidifiers in damp areas to reduce moisture levels, which can attract pests.

7. Educate Household Members

• Awareness Training: Teach family members to report any signs of pests or potential entry points immediately.  The colder it gets the more animals and pests will try to get inside.

8. Consider Professional Help

• Pest Inspection: If you suspect a significant pest issue, consider hiring a pest control professional for a thorough inspection and treatment plan.  You can also be proactive and have an inspection done before winter time, like you would with a heater check-up before the weather gets cold.

By following this checklist, you can significantly reduce the chances of winter critters finding their way into your home. Regular maintenance and vigilance are key to keeping pests at bay!  As always, give us a call if you need your house inspected.

If you want to get rid of ants in your house or ants in your pants we’ve got you covered!  Actually I’m not too sure about the ants in the pants though.  Ants are a very common household pests, and their presence can quickly turn from a nuisance to a significant infestation. While they play a vital role in the ecosystem, their intrusion into our homes can lead to various problems, including contamination of food and potential damage to property.   Some of them are just pests and make a mess!  In this article, we’ll explore effective methods for getting rid of ants in your house, preventive measures to keep them out, and how to manage an infestation sustainably.

Understanding Ant Behavior

Before diving into methods for elimination, it’s essential to understand why ants invade our homes. Ants are social insects that thrive in colonies, which can range from a few dozen to millions of individuals. They enter homes in search of food, water, and shelter, often following scent (pheromone) trails laid by other ants. Identifying the type of ant you’re dealing with can be beneficial, as different species may require different treatment strategies.

Common Household Ants

1. Sugar Ants: Attracted to sugary substances like sodas and usually wander the countertops.
2. Pavement Ants: Typically nest outside but may enter homes in search of food.
3. Odorous House Ants: Produce a distinctive odor when crushed and are often found near food sources.
4. Fire Ants: Known for their painful stings, they can be aggressive and need immediate attention.
5. Carpenter Ants: Wood-destroying ants that can cause structural damage to your house.

Step-by-Step Guide to Eliminate Ants

1. Identify the Source

The first step in controlling an ant infestation is to locate the source. Observe their movements to find where they’re entering your home. Look for trails and entry points such as cracks in walls, windows, weep holes, and doors. This will help you target your efforts more effectively.  Also check for tree limbs or shrubs touching the house providing access points for the ants.  If you need help with identification you can always email or text us a picture so we can help!

2. Clean Up Food Sources

Ants are attracted to food, so eliminating access to it is crucial:

• Seal Food: Store food in airtight containers and refrigerate perishables.
• Clean Spills and Crumbs: Wipe down countertops, tables, and floors regularly to remove any food residues.
• Take Out the Trash: Dispose of garbage regularly, ensuring that bins are sealed tightly.

3. Use Natural Deterrents

Before resorting to chemicals, try natural remedies to deter ants:

• Vinegar Solution: Mix equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle and apply it to entry points and trails. The strong smell disrupts their scent trails.  It can also be applied to drains to help eliminate breeding grounds for other insects like drain flies.
• Citrus Peels: Place citrus peels around entry points; ants dislike the smell of citrus.
• Essential Oils: Essential oils like peppermint or tea tree oil can be effective. Mix a few drops with water and spray it around the house.
• Diatomateous Earth: A powdery substance that can be applied around the house to cause silica-like cuts in the ants bodies causing them to dry out and perish.  Can be applied in a bead around entrances or the entire foundation.

4. Set Up Baits

If natural methods fail, consider using ant baits. These are often more effective than sprays because they target the entire colony:

• Choose the Right Bait: Different baits work for different species. Sugar-based baits work for sweet-toothed ants, while protein-based baits are more effective for those that prefer protein. Some ants change their tastes based on their needs for that season or time of year.
• Types of Baits: Generally gel baits are sweeter for ants coming in for sugar or moisture.  Granular baits are for ants coming after carbohydrate or grease food sources.  Some ants like carpenter ants tend to prefer granular baits almost all the time.
• Placement: Place baits near ant trails but away from children and pets. The ants will carry the bait back to their nest, ultimately killing the colony.  This usually takes a few weeks since most baits are slow-acting so the ant has time to return to the colony to share before it dies.

5. Seal Entry Points

Once you’ve started to eliminate the ants, focus on preventing future infestations:

• Seal Cracks and Crevices: Use caulk to seal any openings around doors, windows, and the foundation of your home.  Fine copper mesh can be applied to weep holes to keep ants from entering.  Check window drain holes also as that is a common entry point.
• Install Screens: Make sure windows and vents are equipped with screens to keep ants out.
• Maintain Your Yard: Keep plants and debris away from the foundation to reduce potential nesting sites.

6. Monitor and Maintain

After taking steps to eliminate the ants, it’s important to monitor the situation:

• Regular Inspections: Check areas where you previously noticed ants and inspect for any signs of new activity.
• Continue Cleaning: Maintain a clean environment to reduce attractants.
• Reapply Natural Deterrents: Regularly spray natural deterrents around potential entry points.

When to Call a Professional

If your efforts to eliminate ants are unsuccessful, or if you’re dealing with a severe infestation, it may be time to call in pest control professionals. They have access to more effective and longer lasting treatments and can provide a thorough inspection of your home to identify and eliminate the problem.  Most (but not all) of the ant problems I encounter can be remedied with one treatment.  Plus I have a truck full of all the goodies they like to eat and share with their colony!

Preventive Measures

To avoid future ant problems, consider implementing these preventive strategies:

• Regular Cleaning: Keep your kitchen and dining areas free of food debris.  Take trash out of the house regularly.
• Store Firewood Properly: If you have firewood, store it away from your home to reduce nesting sites for ants.
• Landscape Wisely: Avoid planting trees and shrubs too close to your home, as they can provide pathways for ants.
• Remove Attractants:  Cat food and hummingbird nectar will draw ants towards your house and should be kept as far away as possible.  I always recommend my customers hang hummingbird feeders on its own post in the yard instead of mounting them to the eaves of the house because they ants will always find them.

Getting rid of ants in your house requires a combination of observation, cleanliness, and strategic application of treatments. By understanding their behavior and taking proactive measures, you can effectively manage and prevent ant infestations. Whether you opt for natural remedies or professional help, persistence is key.  Be sure to give us a call if you need help eliminating your ants problems!

Ground hornets, also known as yellowjackets of numerous species, are an aggressive wasp known for
their multiple and painful stings. Here in the Hill Country, they are typically more active during the
autumn months and begin foraging around October and November. Here are some fun facts and tips to
keep yourself safe this fall.

Appearance

One of the most common ground hornets in the Canyon Lake/Spring Branch area are the German
yellowjacket or German wasp as some people call it. One of the unique characteristics of the German
wasp is its ability to recognize individual faces, which is not common for insects. They have black
antennae, 3 pairs of yellow legs and symmetrical yellow spots on the head. Their abdomen has geometric
shapes with black and yellow spots.

They are often mistaken for honey bees, and are about 1⁄2” long.
Bees have more of a hovering flight pattern and do not seem to notice humans very much. Yellowjackets
will have a more direct flight pattern when they are foraging, like they are on a mission. Yellowjackets
are also smooth and not fuzzy like bees. Disturbance of a nest will cause them to release an attack
pheromone and begin to all pile out and come after whatever person or equipment is disturbing them.

Nesting Locations

I have found them in holes in trees, water meter boxes, retaining walls made out of railroad ties or stacked rocks, in exterior walls of houses, and even a big carton nest in some tall decorative grasses at the golf course at Canyon Lake years ago. I also went to treat after a septic tank installer dug one out of the
ground with his backhoe and got attacked. His equipment was left right where it was when he started
getting stung. If you see a bunch of them coming and going from a small hole somewhere, chances are
that they are yellowjackets. All the wasp spray in the world will not be a proper technique on eradicating
them.

What Attracts Them

Yellowjackets like sugary substances and proteins or sodas like most wasps and bees. Picnics and
cookouts are areas that could be a problem. I tend to see them by the trash cans at the gas station quite
often also, for the same reasons. They are not super aggressive when not guarding a nest, but you should
still take caution and remain calm without swatting at them. Bright colors and floral patterns are what
they are attracted to in nature, so wearing neutral colored clothes are outdoor festivities will decrease the
chances of them noticing you.

Prevention

Although you cannot prevent yellowjackets from existing and finding their nest can be difficult if they
aren’t swarming from it, you can be aware of your surroundings this time of year. When doing pest
control I always look for activity in stacked rocks and retaining walls. Weep holes that look like they
have paper hanging out of them can be signs on a hornet infestation. Take care when running loud
equipment like chainsaws or weedeaters since this is how lots of homeowners disturb a nest and get
attacked.

If you do find a nest just slowly get away from it without flailing your arms. However, if you
are being attacked, run as quickly as you can to safety. If any stingers are left on the skin scrape them off
with a credit card. Next, clean the affected areas with soap and water and apply an ice pack to sting
locations. Antihistamines will help reduce inflammation as well as NSAIDS like Asprin, Advil, or Tylenol.

For those with known allergies to insect stings, carrying an epinephrine auto-injector is crucial. Recognizing the signs of an allergic reaction, such as difficulty breathing, swelling of the face or throat,
and rapid pulse, can save lives. If any of these symptoms occur, seek emergency medical help
immediately.

Professional Help

Unfortunately, most of my customers find ground hornets the hard way, by getting stung multiple times.
There are so many locations they could be nesting, it’s not practical to try and prevent them. If you do
find a nest that needs to be removed, Alternative Pest Control has the expertise and equipment to
eliminate those dangerous nests around your home. I have treated many many nests in my career as a
bugman! We usually make 2-3 trips to make sure there is no more activity.

Fruit flies are pesky, annoying and have health implications just like other fly species.  The common fruit fly, also known as a vinegar fly are known and identified by their red eyes.  Fruit flies show up in places with old perished, fermented food products like sewers, waste treatment plants, and containers with decaying food residue.  They carry bacteria to other foods and humans become sick after eating that food.  They are often found in commercial kitchens, home kitchens, bakeries, fruit shops and places with lots of sugary flavorings or soda drinks.

Interesting Facts

• Fruit flies only live about 30 days but a female can reproduce rapidly, laying up to 500 eggs.
• There are over 1500 species of Drosophila.
• They can exhibit social behaviors, like forming groups and communicating through chemical signals.
• They share about 60% of their genes with humans, which helps in studying genetics, developments, and diseases.
• Fruit flies have taste receptors on their feet, meaning they can taste food before they land on it!
• Fruit flies can metabolize alcohol and seem to prefer alcoholic environments, which can help with studies on addiction.

Causes

Fruit flies are active in warmer seasons and reproduce in large numbers.  They are present year round but not as active during cooler months.  They are attracted to ripened or fermented fruits or vegetables.  Pumpkins and tomatoes are prime culprits.  Bananas and mangoes are also one of the most common sources of infestations at home.  Once in the home, they will be attracted to sugary, bubbly drinks.

Prevention

• Check fruits and veggies for fly eggs or larva hidden in the products to avoid bringing them into your home. 
• Washing fruits as soon as they are brought in will help, and refrigerating foods will keep them from becoming infested. 
• Ripe foods should be eaten fresh and older foods should be stored in containers that are sealed.
•  Keeping sugary items dry and sealed will help.  Things like cornmeal, sucrose, grape sugar powder and yeast need to be in sealed containers.  The flies will be attracted to these items if they get wet or damp.
• Seal wine containers.  As stated above, fruit flies love the taste and smell of wine and other alcohols and will lay eggs near the mouth of the brewing containers.  Larva will hatch and fall into the brewing wine! 
• Keep the kitchen and utensils clean.  Clean cutting boards, fruit plates, cups and knives soon after each use.
• Empty the trash regularly and rinse cans or bottles with sugary residue or alcohol.
• Installing finer mesh screens on windows can also help.
• Replace old cleaning supplies like moldy or blackened sponges and mops, since they attract flies.

Solutions

Alcohol Trap – An empty wine bottle with just a little wine residue left makes a great fruit fly trap.  Keep one inch or less of wine in the bottom of the bottle.  They funnel-shape of the bottle traps the fruit flies and since there are no supports to cling to, they fall into the wine and drown.

Soda Trap – Pour a small amount of soda, beer, or apple cider in a container and cover with plastic film.  Poke holes in the film so the flies will enter to get to the liquid but will be hard for them to escape.

Sugar & Vinegar Trap – Mix a small amount of vinegar, sugar and dish detergent and stir evenly.  They are attracted to the sweet and sour smell of sugar and vinegar and the detergent kills them.

Fumigate the Room – Burning an orange peel or dried wormwood will repel fruit flies.

Plants With Strong Scents – Basil, pepper, lavender, clove, lemongrass and mints are offensive to fruit flies and placing these plants in front of windows and doors can help repel them.

Drain Treatments – Vinegar or boiling water down the drains in the kitchen and bathroom sinks will kill the fly eggs and larva that are in the drains.  There is also a good product call BioFoam that works well and keeping drains clean.

If you follow some of these tips and tricks fruit flies will no longer be a persistent problem in your home.  Feel free to give us a call or find us on social media if you need more solutions or advice in treating your own bug issues.  We’re here to help!

Scorpions

Scorpions are 8-legged arthropods that are close relatives to spiders, ticks, and mites.  They have 8 legs, 2 pincers (pedipalps) and a segmented tail with a bulb-like stinger.  They can sting two different ways, as a warning to humans who invade their space, and a more potent sting for stunning their prey.  Scorpions have very small eyes and poor vision, so they use vibrations and a keen sense of hearing to navigate and find food.  They prefer to feed on live insects like crickets, spiders, centipedes, as well as other insects. They are more prevalent in the Southern United States.

Centipedes

Centipedes are also not insects, but arthropods with a flattened worm-like body with 100 legs.  They have jaws containing venom glands on the first body segment behind the head.  They can range from one inch to over 12 inches depending on the species.  The Texas Red-Headed Centipede is the most scary of the bunch and is a very tough to kill species.  There are also smaller brown centipedes. The house centipede has a grayish-yellow body which is about 1.5 inches long and has 3 stripes running down its back.  It also has white bands around its 15 pairs of legs.

Carpenter Ants & Acrobat Ants

Both carpenter and acrobat ants are all over the Texas Hill Country and are similar in color and shape. Carpenter ants are wood-destroying species which drill or tunnel into wood to make a nest.  They do not actually consume the wood, but just excavate it to house their nest. They are some of the largest ant species in the United States, ranging from 1/4”-1/2” long.  Although they do not sting, they can inflict a painful bite with their wood-destroying mandibles. Evidence of carpenter ants will be ant pieces and dead bodies, sawdust, frass, and/or trailing ants. The main visible difference in carpenter ants and acrobat ants is the larger size of carpenter ants, as well as their larger bulbous tail.

Acrobat ants look like carpenter ants but are smaller (1/8”) and have a heart-shaped tail.  They do not actually destroy wood but take advantage of holes, gaps, cracks, or voids in homes to nest in.  You will sometimes find insulation pulled out of windows or soffit vents where the ants are nesting.  Acrobats tend aphids and feed on the honeydew and protect the aphids with a coarse-fiber carton over the scale insects.  They communicate and travel using pheromone trails, which lets other ants know where the food source is.  If you place a hummingbird feeder close to a tree, you can see the acrobat ants at work following the pheromone trail to the feeder.

Silverfish

Silverfish are small, wingless insects that range in color from silvery to brown due to their fine-scaled bodies. They have a soft body structure and can grow up to 3/4” long. Their shape is elongated and oval, featuring three long tail projections and two long antennae.

Once they reach adulthood, female silverfish continuously lay eggs, potentially exceeding 100 throughout their lifespan. Eggs are deposited either singly or in small clusters within cracks and crevices, hatching within 3 weeks.

Silverfish are general feeders that primarily consume carbohydrates and proteins, such as flour, dried meat, rolled oats, paper, and even glue. They can endure long periods without food—sometimes over a year—but require high humidity (75% to 90%) to thrive. Their preferred temperature range is between 70 and 80°F.

Paper Wasps

Paper wasps measure between 3/4” and 1” in length and have a slender, narrow-waisted appearance, with smoky black wings that fold lengthwise when not in use. Their coloration varies by species: Polistes exclamans is brown with yellow markings on the head, thorax, and abdomen bands, while Polistes carolina is primarily reddish-brown.

It’s important to distinguish paper wasps from yellowjackets and bald-faced hornets. Unlike the latter, paper wasp nests are open and lack a protective covering over the cells.

Nests are frequently found around homes, particularly under eaves, on structures, and in plants. Wasps will defend their nests if disturbed and can sting multiple times. While stings typically cause localized pain and swelling, they can lead to systemic reactions in sensitive individuals, including severe allergic reactions that may be life-threatening. Males do not sting. Despite their aggressive defense of nests, many gardeners view paper wasps as beneficial because they help control insect pests like caterpillars.

Fleas

Adult cat fleas measure about 1/8 inch long (1 to 3 mm), appearing brownish-black and flattened, and they lack wings. Their backward-pointing bristles assist in navigating through the fur or feathers of their hosts, making them hard to remove through grooming. Fleas have six legs, with the hind pair being long and specialized for jumping.

Flea larvae are smaller, measuring less than 1/4 inch long (6 mm), and are legless with a dirty white appearance. They are typically found in the bedding of infested pets.

Cat fleas are the most prevalent type found on dogs and cats. Fleas that feed on rodents can transmit diseases like plague and murine typhus, so it’s advisable to avoid close contact with wild rodents such as squirrels and rats. However, cat fleas themselves do not carry the plague.

American Cockroaches

The American cockroach is the largest species of roach commonly found in homes. They typically inhabit places like restaurants, grocery stores, bakeries, breweries, and pet shops, where food is prepared or stored. These roaches prefer damp environments and can often be found in sewers, basements, heating ducts, and on the lower floors of buildings. They can easily be transported into homes in boxes or items from infested locations. Cockroaches are known to contaminate food, damage wallpaper, books, and clothing, and emit a foul odor. Additionally, they can trigger allergic reactions in some individuals and contaminate food with bacteria that can lead to illnesses like food poisoning, dysentery, or diarrhea. Cockroaches have also been linked to childhood asthma.

Mosquitoes

Adult mosquitoes are approximately 1/4” long, characterized by long legs, clear wings, and a slender body covered in scales. Their heads feature compound eyes, thread-like antennae, and long, slender mouthparts for sucking. Male mosquitoes, which do not bite, can be identified by their very hairy, “feathery” antennae, which help them detect females. The Asian tiger mosquito (Aedes albopictus) was first recorded in Texas in 1985 and is now a common species. It is easily recognized by its black body with white markings and a single white stripe down the middle of its thorax. In contrast, the yellow fever mosquito (Aedes aegypti) has two curved, lyre-shaped stripes on its thorax.

Female mosquitoes bite and can transmit diseases such as malaria, filariasis, and various arthropod-borne viruses, including yellow fever and dengue fever. The saliva injected during feeding causes itching. In Texas, there are about 55 mosquito species, with approximately 170 species found nationwide.

Termites

Subterranean termites are the most destructive wood pests in the U.S., causing billions in damage annually, particularly to homes. While they play a beneficial role in nature by recycling cellulose into nutrients, they pose significant risks when they invade human structures.

These social insects live in soil colonies with three castes: reproductives, workers, and soldiers. Winged primary reproductives, known as swarmers, are about 1/4” to 3/8” long and can be identified by their varying colors and wing patterns. Workers, the most numerous, are wingless and creamy white, responsible for foraging and colony maintenance. Soldiers have larger heads and jaws for defense.

Subterranean termites often enter homes through wood in contact with soil. Signs of infestation include swarmers, mud tubes, and damaged wood. Active infestations can be hard to detect, but signs like mud tubes or wings near windows indicate trouble.

Subterranean termites, including native and Formosan species, are widespread in Texas and require vigilance from homeowners. Regular inspections and preventative measures are essential to mitigate their destructive potential.

Spiders

Since there are thousands of species of spiders, we’ll focus on the dangerous ones!

Black Widow

Black widow spiders are typically shy and prefer hidden, undisturbed areas. Bites usually occur when someone accidentally disturbs them or their webs. Common habitats include outbuildings, garages, cellars, furniture, shrubbery, and areas with high insect activity.

• Generally jet black, though coloration can vary by species.
• The underside of the abdomen features two distinctive reddish triangles.
• Adults measure around 1½ inches long.
• They have eight eyes arranged in two rows.
• Eggs are laid in a loosely woven silk cup.

While less than 5% of bites are fatal, prompt medical attention is advised for severe symptoms.

Brown Recluse

Recluse spiders prefer secluded areas away from human activity, commonly found in closets, basements, attics, and outdoor locations like piles of rocks and leaves. They often hide in shoe boxes, clothing, and furniture. Most bites occur on the hands or feet when handling infested items, as these spiders are nocturnal and feed on insects like silverfish and crickets.

After mating, which can happen between February and October, female recluse spiders lay 40 to 50 eggs in off-white, round silk cases about 1/4 inch in diameter, typically in dark, sheltered spots. The optimal egg-laying period is from May to August. Over their lifespan of one to two years (sometimes up to five), females produce one to five egg sacs.

Be sure to give us a call if you need help controlling any of these Texas pests!  Also check out our other posts to gain more information about the pests listed here.

Wasps are misunderstood creatures and often invoke fear in those who are allergic to their stings and others who just don’t want to get stung or bothered!  Most wasps do not want to sting and only sting when threatened or when guarding their nest.  Like most other insects and arthropods, they mostly want to find food and water to survive.

There are over 30,000 species of wasps, solitary and social, and they play an important role in the ecosystem. Paper wasps and yellow jackets feed on other insects like caterpillars, beetles, and aphids, reducing the need for pesticides on farms.  They help maintain balance as they are predators for some insects and prey for birds and other insects.  Eliminating wasps would throw off that balance and would result in an increase in what they eat and decrease in animals that feed on them. 

Social wasp species like paper wasps and yellow jackets have a hierarchical structure, with workers, queens and drones performing certain tasks and chores.  Many wasps make nests out of chewed wood fibers, using their saliva to form a lightweight and strong nest.  They communicate using pheromones, or scents to alert the other members of danger or food sources.  If you disturb a nest the wasps will release an attack pheromone that tells the workers to attack the enemy.  Ground hornets like German Yellow Jackets, or Southern Yellow Jackets will attack in droves if disturbed.

One of the more important benefits of wasps is in the role of nature’s decomposers.  Wasps from the family Vespidae break down organic matter and feed on decaying fruits and dead insects.  This helps recycle nutrients back into the soil and maintaining the soil fertility.

There are also parasitic wasps, which lay their eggs on other insects where they feed on the host and control pest populations.  Cicada killer wasps will dig burrows in the ground for their larva to feed on the cicadas.

The largest wasp in the world is the Asian giant hornet (Vespa mandarinia). Native to East Asia, it can reach lengths of up to 2 inches and has a wingspan of around 3 inches. Known for its distinctive yellow and black markings, the Asian giant hornet is notable not only for its size but also for its potent sting, which can be quite painful. These hornets are social insects that live in colonies, and they are primarily predators of other insects, including honeybees.

The smallest wasp in the world is the Megaphragma caribea, a parasitoid wasp which lays its eggs inside the larva of other insects.  It is only 0.14 mm (0.0055 in.) and one of the smallest insects known.  It lives in the Caribbean.

Chiggers are so small that they are not visible to the naked eye, but pack a punch when it comes to itching and discomfort!  They are 1/150th of an inch in size and a member of the mite family, known as Trombiculidae.  They are typically in wooded areas and areas with tall grass, but I have encountered them in shorter grasses also.

Chiggers attach to the skin and inject digestive enzymes which break down skin cells which they then feed upon.  Contrary to popular belief, chiggers do not burrow into the skin and do not need to be smothered with nail polish remover.  Soap and water will remove any remaining larva off of the skin.  They also do not feed on blood, but only the skin cells their enzymes break down.  Bites will be found on the ankles up to the pantline.

Chiggers go through four life stages: egg, larva, nymph and adult.  They only feed on humans in the larval stage.  They are more active during the warmer months when humidity is high and temperatures between 77-86 degrees.  Around Canyon Lake, we tend to start getting calls for chiggers in April and as it gets hotter and dryer in the summer they are no longer a problem.  Wet summers like this year (2024) make for a longer chigger season than normal.

How to Get Rid of Chiggers

Showering after being in areas infested with chiggers will wash any larva away.  Wash clothing and bedding that may have been exposed in hot water.  Anti-itch creams with hydrocortisone or calamine lotion will help treat the inflammation and itching that will come after exposure.  Oral histamines can also help with inflammation.  Try not to scratch the affected areas so they will not become infected.

Prevention

Wearing long pants and sleeves, socks and using rubber bands to hold the pants tight against the leg will help prevent larval chiggers from getting to your skin.  You can also tuck pants inside boots to keep your skin covered.  Insect repellent sprays can be applied to skin a clothing to deter the pests from climbing aboard.  Avoid sitting on the ground in rougher terrain areas, like in the woods or the less developed parts of your property.

Keeping grass short and vegetation trimmed will create a less than ideal habitat for chiggers.  Keeping leaf litter removed also helps.

Treatments

Treatment involves using a liquid and granular insecticide to the areas of infestation, which is usually difficult to pinpoint, so I normally do entire yard treatments.  For most customers one service a year will take care of the issue so we just schedule each year when the chiggers appear.

DIY Treatments

You can try the big box store yard insecticides that attach to a hose-end sprayer, but I’ve found these are not very effective and usually don’t have a very high concentration of insecticide.  You might also not be able to reach all areas of the yard with one bottle, or run out of length on your water hose.

As a professional, I can treat over an acre at a time and have enough hose on my sprayer to reach 300 feet and can do it all in 30-45 minutes.  We normally have a very high success rate and customer satisfaction with chigger treatments.

Give us a call if you need help controlling these microscopic itchy buggers!

Cockroaches getting into your home can be vectors of disease transmission and bacteria spread.  Canyon Lake, TX and the surrounding areas have a few outdoor roach species, such as American cockroaches, Smokey Brown cockroaches, and Brown-Banded cockroaches.  There are also other species but these three are the most prevalent.

Roaches release odorous secretions which can cause odors in their general infestation area.  They also carry protozoa, bacteria, and viruses inside their bodies, spreading disease and sickness. The most common sickness spread is gastroenteritis (food poisoning, dysentery, diarrhea). Sometimes roaches will invade a variety of foods, and have a preference for decaying organic matter.  Gross. Shed skin can also cause allergic reactions or asthma symptoms in some people.

The unsanitary places where the roaches breed and live (sewers, drains, bathrooms, leaf piles, garbage disposals) is where the disease-causing aspect comes into play.  They carry bacteria and filth on their bodies and then invade other areas like homes, bringing the filth into that environment.

Inspection & Sanitation

A proper assessment of the home will help identify problem areas.  Excess moisture is a conducive condition for roaches to thrive.  Leaf piles, clogged gutters, hollow trees, wood piles, standing water, over-watered ground cover or garden beds provide the environment needed for American roaches to survive.  Sealing plumbing & HVAC lines coming into the house help prevent entry points.  Removing any rotted wood or repairing water damaged decks and sheds also helps.

Inside the home seal pipes under sinks and around toilets.  Also check door weatherstripping and make sure there are no large gaps.  Cockroaches can also come inside with cardboard packaging, so any boxes should be discarded in the dumpster as soon as possible.  Turning off porch lights at night can help since American cockroaches can fly, although not very good!

Food sources such as cereal, cookies, flour, sugar, and bread should be stored in airtight plastic containers until the infestation is remedied.  Roaches love sweets! Do not leave dirty dishes on stoves or piled in the sink, since that food residue can feed numerous roaches.

Treatment Options

Baits are the most effective treatments for all types of roaches, and should be applied to the harborage areas and anywhere else they are seen.  There are numerous different chemicals in baits but ones that are effective are boric acid based, fipronil, abamectin, indoxacarb, or silica-type baits are all effective.  Outdoors granular scatter baits are more effective than gel baits and easier to spread to reach a wider area.  Most bait containers have a flip-top lid to spread the baits effectively.

Indoors granular baits can be used in small plastic containers inside cabinets.  Gel baits or bait stations, which are small plastic discs containing baits inside are effective when placed in cracks and under sinks and cabinets where roaches reside.  Behind appliances or underneath them is another great area to place baits.

Dusts can be used in cracks and crevices, with care taken to avoid over-application or contaminating food supplies.  Just a light puff of dust in electrical outlets or weep holes will help control roaches in those areas.

Alternative Pest Control is your cockroach control expert!

Give us a call and we can perform a proper inspection and treatment plan to give you results and allow you to enjoy your home again.

Dealing with fleas in the Texas Hill County can be a chore because they thrive in the humid environment.  Here in Canyon Lake and the surrounding areas what we lack in deer ticks we more than make up for with fleas.  Here is the short and simple way to get rid of fleas in your home.

Identification

Adult fleas are about 1/8” long, oval shaped, and reddish or brownish color.  They are very smooth which allows them to move through the fur or feathers of their host.  They feed on the blood of the host and then lay eggs, 25-40 per day.  These eggs will eventually hatch 2-5 days later then go through 3 larval stages and a pupal stage.  Eventually they will become adult fleas in about 2 weeks.  Flea dirt is their droppings that you will find on pets, which looks similar to ground pepper, but is actually dried blood and fecal matter from the fleas feeding on pets.

Pet Treatments

The absolute most important aspect of flea control is to have the animals treated with products that kill fleas, preferably before they bite the animal.  Some products on the market no longer work due to the fleas becoming resistant to the ingredients.  Ask your veterinarian which products work the best for your animal.  If the products work and kill the adult fleas before they lay eggs, that is  super important in stopping the reproduction cycle.  Even with proper treatments, you will sometimes have another emergence of adult fleas after 2-3 weeks, which come from flea eggs that are still hatching.

Sanitation

Vacuuming is the single most effective, easiest way to gain control of a flea infestation quickly.  Vacuuming removes flea eggs and flea dirt as well as agitating floors to cause fleas to hatch and get sucked up by the vacuum cleaner.  We always have people start vacuuming daily before we arrive to do a flea treatment and it helps speed the process tremendously.  Just be sure the empty the contents away from the house so fleas don’t hatch inside the vacuum and then crawl back out!

Bathing the pets will also help wash fleas down the drain and rid them of the allergic reaction-causing flea dirt that will irritate their skin.  Flea bite dermatitis is a very uncomfortable condition for the pet, causing severe itching, hair loss, and even some animals pulling their hair out to get to the fleas. Bathe with a safe flea bath product or dish soap that will coat the fleas.

Also wash any bedding where the pet sleeps or spends the majority of time.  If animals sleep on the bed then wash sheets as often as possible until the situation is improved.  Washing eliminates flea eggs much the same way vacuuming does, except they go down the drain.

Flea Treatments

Flea traps, which have a small nightlight with a glue trap underneath it are very effective at catching adult fleas that are left after vacuuming.  You can also make your own with a nightlight and small bowl of dish soap and water to drown fleas as they jump towards the warm light, thinking it is a host animal.  They are fairly effective and a good monitoring device.

The most effective and fastest flea-killing insecticides contain permethrin, imidicloprid, and dinotefuran.  They should also contain an insect grown regulator (IGR), methoprene or pyriproxyfen, that disrupts the flea egg/larval development and preventing future generations from being able to develop and survive.

Aerosols are easier to use than liquid concentrates and dry faster.  All bedding, fabrics, carpets, rugs, and cushions should be treated.  Flip couch cushions and treat both sides as well as the cracks around the cushions.  Anywhere an animal rests there will be flea eggs that drop off the animal when it scratches.

Foggers or bug bombs are not recommended since they concentrate the chemical up into the air above the can and not down in the carpet fibers where the fleas and larva spend most of their time.

Yard Treatments

Yard treatments may be necessary, especially if there are wild animals that walk the premises.  Deer, squirrels, possums, cats, dogs, skunks, raccoons, and most other mammals can be infested with fleas.  Those flea eggs will drop off the animal and hatch in your yard, then get on your pets. Yard treatments aren’t always necessary but sometimes help gain control of a heavy infestation.  Fresh animal carcasses can also be heavily infested with fleas, as well as sick or dying wild animals. 

Professional pest control experts will have equipment and proper products to treat your house, yard, crawlspace and other problem areas.  Plus we know what products work and what doesn’t! 

Be sure to check out our other posts if you need information about controlling other pests!

Give us a call if you need help with a flea problem, or have questions about products or treatments.  We have lot of resources and have pets of our own so we can guide you into having a flea-free home!