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Reduced Impact Service in Pest Control: A Sustainable Approach to Protecting Homes and the Environment

In recent years, the pest control industry has witnessed a paradigm shift toward sustainability and environmental responsibility. One of the most promising developments in this direction is the concept of reduced impact service (RIS). This approach emphasizes minimizing the negative effects of pest control practices on the environment, non-target organisms, and human health, while still effectively managing pest populations. Reduced impact service is gaining traction as homeowners and businesses become more conscious of the ecological footprint of traditional pest control methods.

In this article, we will explore the core principles of reduced impact service in pest control, the techniques involved, and the benefits it offers to both the environment and customers.

What is Reduced Impact Service (RIS)?

Reduced Impact Service (RIS) in pest control refers to the use of techniques and practices that limit the harmful environmental, social, and health impacts associated with traditional pest management methods. This holistic approach combines integrated pest management (IPM), green or eco-friendly products, and preventive measures designed to minimize chemical use and target pest problems with precision.

At its heart, RIS is about being more thoughtful and less invasive in pest control. It seeks to provide long-term solutions that control pests while protecting ecosystems, promoting biodiversity, and safeguarding human health.

The Core Principles of Reduced Impact Service

The principles of reduced impact service revolve around three key elements: prevention, precision, and responsible product use. Let’s look at each of these in more detail.

1. Prevention

One of the best ways to reduce the impact of pest control is to prevent infestations before they even occur. RIS often focuses heavily on exclusion techniques, sanitation, and habitat modification to reduce the likelihood of pests gaining access to homes or buildings. This may include:

• Sealing entry points: Inspecting and closing gaps, cracks, and holes in walls, windows, and doors to prevent pests from entering.  Tight fitting screens and weather stripping will go a long ways towards keeping pests out.
• Regular cleaning: Keeping areas free from food debris, waste, and standing water, which can attract pests like ants, cockroaches, or rodents.
• Landscaping adjustments: Properly maintaining yards to avoid conditions that harbor pests, such as overgrown vegetation, stagnant water, or clutter.  Trimming trees, grass, bushes, etc. will help to keep bugs and other critters from accessing the home.

By addressing the root causes of pest infestations, RIS reduces the need for reactive treatments, which are typically more invasive and may require multiple treatments or trips.

2. Precision

Precision refers to targeting pest problems at the source and applying treatments with accuracy. In a reduced impact service, pest control professionals aim to use the least amount of chemicals possible, applying them only where necessary and in the most effective manner. This can be achieved through:

• Spot treatments: Instead of blanket spraying, which can disperse chemicals into the environment, pest control specialists focus on treating specific problem areas, such as cracks, crevices, and nests.  Care is taken to apply liquids only to the foundation and eaves which are problem areas.  Yard treatments are no longer needed unless it is for chiggers, or a lawn insect causing damage.  Everything else can be controlled with a more basic and less invasive treatment.
• Traps and monitoring devices: Non-toxic, mechanical traps are used to capture pests or monitor populations. This helps professionals assess the extent of the infestation before applying any treatment.  Glue boards do a great job at identifying problem areas, what insects are getting inside and the effectiveness of treatments on things like roaches.
• Baiting systems: These provide targeted doses of pest control substances to specific pests, reducing unnecessary exposure to the environment.  There are baits for almost every pest now and can be applied without affecting the rest of the ecosystem negatively.

This level of precision not only improves the efficacy of pest control efforts but also ensures that the use of chemicals and pesticides is minimized, which is a key goal of RIS.

3. Responsible Product Use

When chemical products are necessary, reduced impact services prioritize the use of eco-friendly and low-toxicity solutions. There has been a significant rise in demand for products that are certified green, such as:

• Biological agents: These include beneficial nematodes, parasitoid wasps, and other natural predators that control pest populations without the need for chemicals.
• Botanical pesticides: Derived from plants, these products are often less toxic to humans and wildlife than synthetic chemicals.
• Insect growth regulators (IGRs): These disrupt the life cycle of insects, preventing them from maturing or reproducing without posing a threat to other species.
• Low-toxicity synthetic chemicals: When necessary, pest control companies may use reduced-risk chemicals that have been shown to have less environmental impact and lower toxicity to humans and animals.

These products are carefully selected for their effectiveness and their reduced risk to the environment. By using eco-friendly and sustainable options, RIS helps minimize harmful runoff, reduces the contamination of water sources, and protects beneficial organisms like bees and other pollinators.

The Benefits of Reduced Impact Service

The shift to reduced impact service provides numerous benefits, both to the immediate environment and to the long-term health of ecosystems.

1. Environmental Protection

One of the most compelling reasons for adopting RIS is its positive impact on the environment. Traditional pest control methods often rely on chemical sprays that can end up in local water supplies, harming fish and other aquatic life. RIS minimizes the environmental footprint by using non-toxic treatments, biological agents, and precision application methods that reduce the potential for chemical runoff. Sprays are not used when winds are higher than 10 mph to control drift.

Moreover, RIS practices help preserve biodiversity by minimizing the accidental poisoning of non-target species. For example, integrated pest management and biological controls often target specific pests without harming beneficial insects, such as ladybugs or pollinators like bees.

2. Health and Safety

Traditional pest control methods often rely on potent chemicals that can pose health risks to humans and pets. Residual chemicals left behind after treatment can contribute to indoor air pollution or cause allergic reactions. By reducing the use of harmful chemicals, RIS minimizes the risk of exposure to toxic substances, promoting healthier living spaces.  With the industry going towards perimeter-only treatments, it greatly reduces human exposure to chemicals, while providing the same results and benefits of treatment.

Additionally, the use of eco-friendly products and natural pest control methods is safer for children, pets, and individuals with sensitivities or respiratory issues. In homes with young children or elderly family members, this added level of safety is a significant advantage.

3. Cost-Effectiveness

Though reduced impact service may seem like a more expensive option initially, it can actually prove more cost-effective over time. By preventing infestations before they start, utilizing precision treatments, and reducing the need for repeat applications, homeowners may see a decrease in the overall cost of pest control.

4. Long-Term Pest Control

Traditional pest control methods often take a reactive approach, treating symptoms rather than addressing the underlying causes of infestations. Reduced impact service, however, focuses on integrated pest management, which is more proactive and sustainable. Through a combination of preventative measures, monitoring, and strategic treatments, RIS provides long-term control that helps reduce the likelihood of future infestations.

Conclusion

The growing demand for environmentally responsible pest control solutions has led to the rise of reduced impact service as an alternative to traditional methods. By prioritizing prevention, precision, and responsible product use, RIS minimizes the environmental and health impacts associated with pest management while still delivering effective results.

Our goal is always to provide the best results with the smallest amount of exposure and mitigate risks involved for all parties.  However, our area is a hotbed for scorpions and centipedes and therefore require more reactive and preventative treatments.  But our goal is always to provide results the safest and effective way possible and keep you comfortable in your home.

Winter Critter Prevention Checklist

Cooler temperatures and shorter days means the critters of Texas will be looking for a warm place to stay during winter time.  With some proper preparation and exclusion work, you can avoid having unwanted guests during the holiday season.

1. Seal Entry Points

• Inspect Foundations: Check for cracks or gaps in your foundation and seal them with caulk or foam. Use copper mesh in weep holes, roofing gaps, or anywhere you’re trying to keep bugs out.
• Check Windows and Doors: Ensure all windows and doors close tightly; use weatherstripping or door sweeps if needed.  You can always add more and build it up slightly if you have big gaps to seal.  It’s also a bonus since it will help keep cold air out.
• Close Gaps: Look for gaps around pipes, vents, and cables entering your home. Seal with caulk or steel wool.  Remember that steel wool will rust within a few hours of moisture, so if it will be a visible area opt for stainless steel or another type of mesh or foam.
• Check Power/Cable Lines: Rats and squirrels can make their way from trees to your home by following the power lines to the roof.  Have them inspected periodically for gaps and cracks that may allow rodents into the attic.  Also check gable vents for proper mesh sealing and make sure there are no gaps in soffit vents, or soffits that are coming apart creating gaps.  Rats only need a gap the size of their head (3/4”) to fit their body through.

2. Maintain Your Yard

• Trim Vegetation: Cut back tree branches and shrubs that are close to the house, as they can provide pathways for critters.  Also look for broken or weak tree limbs that may fall during freezing weather.  A tree limb falling onto a roof means all the little varmints that live in that tree are on your roof now!
• Clear Debris: Remove piles of leaves, wood, or other debris that can harbor pests.  Blow or mow leaf piles so they do not provide shelter for bugs. 
• Keep Mulch Away: Maintain a distance between mulch and your foundation to reduce nesting spots.  Keep mulch light and avoid piling it higher than 4-6” so you don’t create moisture problems.
• Keep Firewood Away: Firewood should never be stored up against the house.  It should be at least 20-25 feet away to avoid all the wood destroying insects from infesting.  Even worse is when customers bring firewood into the living room for winter, bringing ants and termites along with it.  It is inconvenient but try to only bring in enough firewood for that day.

3. Store Food Properly

• Secure Pet Food: Store pet food in airtight containers and avoid leaving it out overnight.  I recommend customers keep pet food in hard plastic containers with strong lids year-round.  If you feed deer or other wild animals, it’s even more important to keep their food in super-sealed containers to keep raccoons and other scavengers from getting too close to your home.
• Seal Pantry Items: Use airtight containers for pantry staples and clean up spills promptly.
• Dispose of Waste: Keep outdoor trash cans tightly sealed and away from the house.

4. Create a Barrier

• Install Screens: Use fine mesh screens on vents and chimneys to prevent critters from entering.  Check the chimney flue to make sure it operates properly and will close all the way.  This helps keep cold air out and keep wild animals from entering.
• Check Gutters: Ensure gutters are clean and directing water away from your home to prevent moisture issues.  During ice storms gutters that are full of leaves and acorns will freeze and get really heavy and can let loose.  Ask me how I know!

5. Inspect and Maintain

• Regular Inspections: Routinely check your home for signs of pests, such as droppings or gnaw marks.  Use mesh around overhead garage doors since these doors usually do not seal very tightly.
• Check Storage Areas: Look in attics, basements, and garages for signs of pests or potential entry points.  Black lights are good for showing animal urine spots in those areas as well.  A cheap black light flashlight is a good tool to keep on hand.

6. Climate Control

• Adjust Temperature: Keep your home’s temperature consistent; extreme fluctuations can attract pests.
• Use Humidity Control: Use dehumidifiers in damp areas to reduce moisture levels, which can attract pests.

7. Educate Household Members

• Awareness Training: Teach family members to report any signs of pests or potential entry points immediately.  The colder it gets the more animals and pests will try to get inside.

8. Consider Professional Help

• Pest Inspection: If you suspect a significant pest issue, consider hiring a pest control professional for a thorough inspection and treatment plan.  You can also be proactive and have an inspection done before winter time, like you would with a heater check-up before the weather gets cold.

By following this checklist, you can significantly reduce the chances of winter critters finding their way into your home. Regular maintenance and vigilance are key to keeping pests at bay!  As always, give us a call if you need your house inspected.

How to Get Rid of Ants in the House: A Comprehensive Guide

If you want to get rid of ants in your house or ants in your pants we’ve got you covered!  Actually I’m not too sure about the ants in the pants though.  Ants are a very common household pests, and their presence can quickly turn from a nuisance to a significant infestation. While they play a vital role in the ecosystem, their intrusion into our homes can lead to various problems, including contamination of food and potential damage to property.   Some of them are just pests and make a mess!  In this article, we’ll explore effective methods for getting rid of ants in your house, preventive measures to keep them out, and how to manage an infestation sustainably.

Understanding Ant Behavior

Before diving into methods for elimination, it’s essential to understand why ants invade our homes. Ants are social insects that thrive in colonies, which can range from a few dozen to millions of individuals. They enter homes in search of food, water, and shelter, often following scent (pheromone) trails laid by other ants. Identifying the type of ant you’re dealing with can be beneficial, as different species may require different treatment strategies.

Common Household Ants

1. Sugar Ants: Attracted to sugary substances like sodas and usually wander the countertops.
2. Pavement Ants: Typically nest outside but may enter homes in search of food.
3. Odorous House Ants: Produce a distinctive odor when crushed and are often found near food sources.
4. Fire Ants: Known for their painful stings, they can be aggressive and need immediate attention.
5. Carpenter Ants: Wood-destroying ants that can cause structural damage to your house.

Step-by-Step Guide to Eliminate Ants

1. Identify the Source

The first step in controlling an ant infestation is to locate the source. Observe their movements to find where they’re entering your home. Look for trails and entry points such as cracks in walls, windows, weep holes, and doors. This will help you target your efforts more effectively.  Also check for tree limbs or shrubs touching the house providing access points for the ants.  If you need help with identification you can always email or text us a picture so we can help!

2. Clean Up Food Sources

Ants are attracted to food, so eliminating access to it is crucial:

• Seal Food: Store food in airtight containers and refrigerate perishables.
• Clean Spills and Crumbs: Wipe down countertops, tables, and floors regularly to remove any food residues.
• Take Out the Trash: Dispose of garbage regularly, ensuring that bins are sealed tightly.

3. Use Natural Deterrents

Before resorting to chemicals, try natural remedies to deter ants:

• Vinegar Solution: Mix equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle and apply it to entry points and trails. The strong smell disrupts their scent trails.  It can also be applied to drains to help eliminate breeding grounds for other insects like drain flies.
• Citrus Peels: Place citrus peels around entry points; ants dislike the smell of citrus.
• Essential Oils: Essential oils like peppermint or tea tree oil can be effective. Mix a few drops with water and spray it around the house.
• Diatomateous Earth: A powdery substance that can be applied around the house to cause silica-like cuts in the ants bodies causing them to dry out and perish.  Can be applied in a bead around entrances or the entire foundation.

4. Set Up Baits

If natural methods fail, consider using ant baits. These are often more effective than sprays because they target the entire colony:

• Choose the Right Bait: Different baits work for different species. Sugar-based baits work for sweet-toothed ants, while protein-based baits are more effective for those that prefer protein. Some ants change their tastes based on their needs for that season or time of year.
• Types of Baits: Generally gel baits are sweeter for ants coming in for sugar or moisture.  Granular baits are for ants coming after carbohydrate or grease food sources.  Some ants like carpenter ants tend to prefer granular baits almost all the time.
• Placement: Place baits near ant trails but away from children and pets. The ants will carry the bait back to their nest, ultimately killing the colony.  This usually takes a few weeks since most baits are slow-acting so the ant has time to return to the colony to share before it dies.

5. Seal Entry Points

Once you’ve started to eliminate the ants, focus on preventing future infestations:

• Seal Cracks and Crevices: Use caulk to seal any openings around doors, windows, and the foundation of your home.  Fine copper mesh can be applied to weep holes to keep ants from entering.  Check window drain holes also as that is a common entry point.
• Install Screens: Make sure windows and vents are equipped with screens to keep ants out.
• Maintain Your Yard: Keep plants and debris away from the foundation to reduce potential nesting sites.

6. Monitor and Maintain

After taking steps to eliminate the ants, it’s important to monitor the situation:

• Regular Inspections: Check areas where you previously noticed ants and inspect for any signs of new activity.
• Continue Cleaning: Maintain a clean environment to reduce attractants.
• Reapply Natural Deterrents: Regularly spray natural deterrents around potential entry points.

When to Call a Professional

If your efforts to eliminate ants are unsuccessful, or if you’re dealing with a severe infestation, it may be time to call in pest control professionals. They have access to more effective and longer lasting treatments and can provide a thorough inspection of your home to identify and eliminate the problem.  Most (but not all) of the ant problems I encounter can be remedied with one treatment.  Plus I have a truck full of all the goodies they like to eat and share with their colony!

Preventive Measures

To avoid future ant problems, consider implementing these preventive strategies:

• Regular Cleaning: Keep your kitchen and dining areas free of food debris.  Take trash out of the house regularly.
• Store Firewood Properly: If you have firewood, store it away from your home to reduce nesting sites for ants.
• Landscape Wisely: Avoid planting trees and shrubs too close to your home, as they can provide pathways for ants.
• Remove Attractants:  Cat food and hummingbird nectar will draw ants towards your house and should be kept as far away as possible.  I always recommend my customers hang hummingbird feeders on its own post in the yard instead of mounting them to the eaves of the house because they ants will always find them.

Getting rid of ants in your house requires a combination of observation, cleanliness, and strategic application of treatments. By understanding their behavior and taking proactive measures, you can effectively manage and prevent ant infestations. Whether you opt for natural remedies or professional help, persistence is key.  Be sure to give us a call if you need help eliminating your ants problems!

How to Avoid Subterranean Termites: A Comprehensive Guide

Subterranean termites are a formidable foe for homeowners, capable of causing significant damage to wooden structures and foundations. These pests thrive underground and can go unnoticed until the damage is severe. Fortunately, there are effective strategies to prevent these wood-destroying insects from invading your home. This article outlines practical steps you can take to protect your property from subterranean termites.

Understanding Subterranean Termites

Subterranean termites live in colonies that can number in the millions. They build their nests in soil and require moisture to survive. Unlike other types of termites, such as drywood termites, subterranean termites typically enter homes from the ground up. They can travel through mud tubes, which they construct to maintain moisture while navigating between their nest and food sources.  If you break open these mud tubes, you will see small larva-looking workers traveling along in the tubes.

Prevention Strategies

1. Maintain a Dry Environment

Termites thrive in moist conditions. Keeping your home dry is one of the most effective prevention methods. Here are some steps to ensure your home remains moisture-free:

• Fix Leaks: Regularly inspect and repair leaks in plumbing, roofs, and basements. Ensure that gutters and downspouts are functioning properly to direct water away from the foundation.  Many times termites are found during bathroom remodels.  If bath traps are not sealed with concrete or tar and plumbing pipes leak, that will draw termites to the surface and they will find your wood framing.
• Ventilation: Ensure adequate ventilation in attics, crawl spaces, and basements to reduce humidity. Use fans or dehumidifiers if necessary.  Crawl spaces also should be as dry as possible.  While doing an inspection I found a water leak from a pipe just last week.  There is no telling how long it had been leaking.
• Drainage: Ensure proper drainage around your home’s foundation. Grade the soil to slope away from the house, preventing water accumulation.
• Seal Entry Points

Termites can enter your home through tiny openings. To minimize this risk, inspect your home for potential entry points:

• Cracks and Gaps: Seal cracks in the foundation, walls, and around windows and doors with caulk or expanding foam. Pay special attention to areas where utilities enter the home.  Termites have been known to tunnel up the drain pipes in crawl spaces or the grounding straps under pier and beam homes.  They can also enter weep holes on stone houses.
• Joints and Interfaces: Ensure that any joints between building materials are tightly sealed to prevent access. Another access point I have seen is when a slab is poured up against an existing slab for a room addition. This small gap that is usually filled with a wood expansion joint will lead to a future infestation because it is now hidden inside a wall.
• Termimesh is another preventative mesh product applied around plumbing penetrations during the home-building process that is effective in preventing termites from ever entering a structure.  It can be done in addition to a boric acid treatment for complete protection that will last a lifetime.
• Remove Wood-to-Ground Contact

Wood in direct contact with soil creates an easy access point for termites. Follow these guidelines to reduce the risk:

• Foundation Inspection: Ensure that wooden structures like decks, fences, and porch steps are at least six inches above ground level.  Also make sure landscape materials like rock and stone are not above the foundation.  This blocks weep holes and also buries the base of your wall underground where termites reside.
• Wood Storage: Store firewood, lumber, and other wooden materials at least 20 feet away from your home and elevate them off the ground.  Termites and other wood destroying insects will decompose the wood and eventually find more wood in the form of your house!
• Landscaping Considerations

Your landscaping choices can impact your home’s vulnerability to termites. Here are some landscaping tips:

• Mulch Management: Avoid using wood mulch directly against your foundation. Opt for alternatives like rubber mulch or stone.  Avoid over-mulching just like the example of bringing stone too high above the foundation.
• Tree Trimming: Keep trees and shrubs trimmed back from the home to reduce moisture accumulation and prevent easy access for termites.  This also allows for a better inspection for the technician that is looking for termite activity.
• Routine Inspections

Regular inspections are vital for early detection of termite activity. Here’s how to go about it:

• Professional Inspections: Hire a pest control professional for an annual termite inspection. They have the expertise to identify signs of infestations.  They can also distinguish between termites and ants, which some homeowners mistake for each other.
• DIY Checks: Periodically inspect your property for mud tubes, discarded wings, or damaged wood. Look for soft or hollow-sounding wood, which can indicate termite damage.  Mud tubes on drywall around plumbing pipes is also another sign of infestation.  I always encourage customers to look around their foundation for mud tubes periodically and I do more throrough inspections every year or two, and also check the foundation as I treat the perimeter.
• Use Termite-Resistant Materials

When building or renovating, consider using materials that are less attractive to termites:

• Concrete and Steel: Use concrete and steel for foundations, posts, and beams where possible.
• Pressure-Treated Wood: When using wood, opt for pressure-treated options that are less susceptible to termite attacks.
• Chemical Treatments

While prevention is key, some homeowners may choose to use chemical treatments to deter termites:

• Termiticides: Consult a pest control professional about applying termiticides around your home’s perimeter. These chemicals can create a barrier that termites cannot cross.  The treatment involves digging a small trench around the entire foundation then treating it with liquid termiticide.  These treatments will give you termite control for 5-7 years on average. Beware of pest control operators who use subpar products for a very cheap price! 

• Boric Acid: This is a less toxic option that can be used in certain areas. It acts as a stomach poison to termites when ingested.  Orthoboric acide is mixed with water to become a liquid form that is applied to wood framing during the construction process or remodeling.  It will also kill termites that try to tunnel over the treated wood.  The best part of this treatment is that is will last the lifetime of the wood as long as it is not exposed to moisture.

Conclusion

Preventing subterranean termites requires vigilance and proactive measures. By maintaining a dry environment, sealing entry points, managing landscaping, and conducting routine inspections, you can significantly reduce the risk of termite infestations. Consider professional assistance for inspections and treatments, and stay informed about the best practices for termite prevention. With these strategies in place, you can protect your home from the destructive forces of subterranean termites and ensure your property remains safe and sound.

Common Misconceptions About Pest Control

Here are some common misconceptions about pest control that many people have:

1. One Treatment Is Enough: Many believe that a single treatment will eliminate a pest problem, but effective pest control often requires ongoing monitoring and multiple treatments.  Around Canyon Lake and New Braunfels the scorpions are so prevalent that one treatment does not even begin to eliminate or control them.  Sometimes monthly service is needed just to gain control of the high populations of certain insects and arthropods!
2. DIY Methods Are Always Effective: While DIY pest control can be helpful for minor issues, many infestations require professional intervention for effective resolution.  Certain pests like termites, German roaches, chiggers, fleas, ground hornets, and others require professional products and equipment.  Anyone can grab a can and go to spraying, but a professional knows where and how to apply products, as well as how to eliminate the issues.  Knowing the biology and life cycles of the pest is part of controlling them.
3. Pest Control Is Only for Infestations: Some think pest control is only necessary when there’s an obvious infestation, but preventive measures are equally important.  Trimming trees, shrubs and vegetation away from the foundation keeps certain pests from infesting in most instances. Many pests can be prevented just by using Integrated Pest Management (IPM) techniques.  Exclusion, habitat modification, and excess moisture remediation are all super effective pest control strategies that can be implemented at any time whether there is an infestation or not.
4. All Pest Control Products Are Safe for Humans and Pets: Not all pest control products are safe; some can pose health risks if not used correctly. It’s crucial to read labels and follow instructions.  As a pest control operator, we are taught to not use the “safe” word.  When properly applied by a trained, licensed professional in accordance with the label, there is very little risk to the applicator and customer.  There are some very unsafe ingredients in pet shampoos and flea collars.
5. Pest Control Means Chemical Sprays: Many people believe pest control is solely about chemical pesticides. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) includes non-chemical methods, such as habitat modification and biological controls.  Fleas can be controlled with vacuuming frequently and bathing pets with dish soap, so a chemical application is not always needed.  Modifying the habitat is the most natural, eco-friendly way to control pests while maintaining safety, but not always possible.
6. Baits and Traps Are Ineffective: Some assume that traps and baits won’t work, but they can be very effective when used properly and in the right locations.  I like to use glue traps for catching scorpions as they enter a building.  These also catch spiders, pillbugs, centipedes, roaches, and whatever pests may be entering through the doors.  They can also be placed in hiding spots like closets where spiders dwell.  Baits are very effective for ants and roaches.
7. Pests Only Come Out at Night: While some pests are nocturnal, many, like ants and cockroaches, can be active during the day as well.  Wasps are only active during the daytime also.  Depending on the temperature I have seen scorpions out during the day and a few centipedes in garages or flower beds.
8. Using More Pesticide Equals Better Results: Many believe that using more pesticide will lead to better control, but this can be wasteful and potentially harmful. Proper application is key. The manufacturers test their products and determine the smallest amount needed to be lethal for the bugs it is designed for.  Even if you triple the concentration and over-apply, it will not be more effective than the recommended dose. The same goes for mixing products together thinking they will be more effective.  It usually makes no difference.
9. All Bugs Are Harmful: Not all insects are pests; many are beneficial for ecosystems and help control other pest populations.  In my opinion there are no harmful bugs or insects.  They are all here to be food for something or eat something.  Insects may pollinate, decompose, and do other nature cleaning tasks that help the environment.  They all have a place and we should try to keep the ecosystems as natural as possible with proper pest control techniques.
10. Once the Pests Are Gone, the Problem Is Solved: People often think that removing pests means they won’t return. Effective pest management involves identifying and addressing the conditions that allowed them to thrive in the first place.  Excess moisture, overgrown landscaping and environmental factors or even just homes getting older and leakier can lead to future infestations.  Pest control always has to be maintained if the results are to be long-term.  In a couple of months most pest populations can rebound and become an issue, so it’s never a permanent elimination.
11. Natural Remedies Are Always Safer: While some natural remedies can be effective, they can also have risks and may not be as effective as professional solutions.  I use a botanical product in my rotation for wasps.  It is very effective for wasps and is decent against other insects, but only lasts about 7 days.  Essential oils have risks for humans and animals, so always research and use caution when turning to them for DIY use.
12. Pest Control Is Only for Homes: Businesses, schools, and other public places also need pest control, but many people think it’s only a home issue.  Any place that people visit or live could potentially need pest control at some point.  Wasps can fly right?  That means they can invade anywhere on the planet!
13. Professional Pest Control Is Too Expensive: Many underestimate the value of professional services, believing they can handle issues themselves without realizing the long-term costs of untreated infestations.  Some customers have said they wasted a lot of money of products that did not work, did not work long enough, or did adequately eliminate their pests.  If cost is a concern most companies like us offer payments plans for quarterly service, so instead of paying for 4 services you spread the cost of those services out over 12 months so they are under $35 a month for most homes!
14. Pests Are Attracted to Dirty Environmments Only: While cleanliness helps, pests can invade even well-maintained spaces, as they seek food, water, and shelter.  If you have a home, then you can have pests.  They like super nice houses just like we do, they just show up without an invitation!  Anyone can get roaches at any time, from wet weather, coming in at night by the lights, or if they are brought in from a grocery store.
15. You Can’t Prevent Pests: Some people believe pest problems are unavoidable. However, with proper sanitation and preventive measures, many pest issues can be significantly reduced.  I have numerous customers who have had their scorpion issues almost completely resolved by sticking with their regular service plan.  Over time it just gets better and control is easier than in the beginning.  Give us a call and see for yourself!

Staying Safe During Ground Hornet Season

Ground hornets, also known as yellowjackets of numerous species, are an aggressive wasp known for
their multiple and painful stings. Here in the Hill Country, they are typically more active during the
autumn months and begin foraging around October and November. Here are some fun facts and tips to
keep yourself safe this fall.

Appearance

One of the most common ground hornets in the Canyon Lake/Spring Branch area are the German
yellowjacket or German wasp as some people call it. One of the unique characteristics of the German
wasp is its ability to recognize individual faces, which is not common for insects. They have black
antennae, 3 pairs of yellow legs and symmetrical yellow spots on the head. Their abdomen has geometric
shapes with black and yellow spots.

They are often mistaken for honey bees, and are about 1⁄2” long.
Bees have more of a hovering flight pattern and do not seem to notice humans very much. Yellowjackets
will have a more direct flight pattern when they are foraging, like they are on a mission. Yellowjackets
are also smooth and not fuzzy like bees. Disturbance of a nest will cause them to release an attack
pheromone and begin to all pile out and come after whatever person or equipment is disturbing them.

Nesting Locations

I have found them in holes in trees, water meter boxes, retaining walls made out of railroad ties or stacked rocks, in exterior walls of houses, and even a big carton nest in some tall decorative grasses at the golf course at Canyon Lake years ago. I also went to treat after a septic tank installer dug one out of the
ground with his backhoe and got attacked. His equipment was left right where it was when he started
getting stung. If you see a bunch of them coming and going from a small hole somewhere, chances are
that they are yellowjackets. All the wasp spray in the world will not be a proper technique on eradicating
them.

What Attracts Them

Yellowjackets like sugary substances and proteins or sodas like most wasps and bees. Picnics and
cookouts are areas that could be a problem. I tend to see them by the trash cans at the gas station quite
often also, for the same reasons. They are not super aggressive when not guarding a nest, but you should
still take caution and remain calm without swatting at them. Bright colors and floral patterns are what
they are attracted to in nature, so wearing neutral colored clothes are outdoor festivities will decrease the
chances of them noticing you.

Prevention

Although you cannot prevent yellowjackets from existing and finding their nest can be difficult if they
aren’t swarming from it, you can be aware of your surroundings this time of year. When doing pest
control I always look for activity in stacked rocks and retaining walls. Weep holes that look like they
have paper hanging out of them can be signs on a hornet infestation. Take care when running loud
equipment like chainsaws or weedeaters since this is how lots of homeowners disturb a nest and get
attacked.

If you do find a nest just slowly get away from it without flailing your arms. However, if you
are being attacked, run as quickly as you can to safety. If any stingers are left on the skin scrape them off
with a credit card. Next, clean the affected areas with soap and water and apply an ice pack to sting
locations. Antihistamines will help reduce inflammation as well as NSAIDS like Asprin, Advil, or Tylenol.

For those with known allergies to insect stings, carrying an epinephrine auto-injector is crucial. Recognizing the signs of an allergic reaction, such as difficulty breathing, swelling of the face or throat,
and rapid pulse, can save lives. If any of these symptoms occur, seek emergency medical help
immediately.

Professional Help

Unfortunately, most of my customers find ground hornets the hard way, by getting stung multiple times.
There are so many locations they could be nesting, it’s not practical to try and prevent them. If you do
find a nest that needs to be removed, Alternative Pest Control has the expertise and equipment to
eliminate those dangerous nests around your home. I have treated many many nests in my career as a
bugman! We usually make 2-3 trips to make sure there is no more activity.

Fruit Fly Facts & Management

Fruit flies are pesky, annoying and have health implications just like other fly species.  The common fruit fly, also known as a vinegar fly are known and identified by their red eyes.  Fruit flies show up in places with old perished, fermented food products like sewers, waste treatment plants, and containers with decaying food residue.  They carry bacteria to other foods and humans become sick after eating that food.  They are often found in commercial kitchens, home kitchens, bakeries, fruit shops and places with lots of sugary flavorings or soda drinks.

Interesting Facts

• Fruit flies only live about 30 days but a female can reproduce rapidly, laying up to 500 eggs.
• There are over 1500 species of Drosophila.
• They can exhibit social behaviors, like forming groups and communicating through chemical signals.
• They share about 60% of their genes with humans, which helps in studying genetics, developments, and diseases.
• Fruit flies have taste receptors on their feet, meaning they can taste food before they land on it!
• Fruit flies can metabolize alcohol and seem to prefer alcoholic environments, which can help with studies on addiction.

Causes

Fruit flies are active in warmer seasons and reproduce in large numbers.  They are present year round but not as active during cooler months.  They are attracted to ripened or fermented fruits or vegetables.  Pumpkins and tomatoes are prime culprits.  Bananas and mangoes are also one of the most common sources of infestations at home.  Once in the home, they will be attracted to sugary, bubbly drinks.

Prevention

• Check fruits and veggies for fly eggs or larva hidden in the products to avoid bringing them into your home. 
• Washing fruits as soon as they are brought in will help, and refrigerating foods will keep them from becoming infested. 
• Ripe foods should be eaten fresh and older foods should be stored in containers that are sealed.
•  Keeping sugary items dry and sealed will help.  Things like cornmeal, sucrose, grape sugar powder and yeast need to be in sealed containers.  The flies will be attracted to these items if they get wet or damp.
• Seal wine containers.  As stated above, fruit flies love the taste and smell of wine and other alcohols and will lay eggs near the mouth of the brewing containers.  Larva will hatch and fall into the brewing wine! 
• Keep the kitchen and utensils clean.  Clean cutting boards, fruit plates, cups and knives soon after each use.
• Empty the trash regularly and rinse cans or bottles with sugary residue or alcohol.
• Installing finer mesh screens on windows can also help.
• Replace old cleaning supplies like moldy or blackened sponges and mops, since they attract flies.

Solutions

Alcohol Trap – An empty wine bottle with just a little wine residue left makes a great fruit fly trap.  Keep one inch or less of wine in the bottom of the bottle.  They funnel-shape of the bottle traps the fruit flies and since there are no supports to cling to, they fall into the wine and drown.

Soda Trap – Pour a small amount of soda, beer, or apple cider in a container and cover with plastic film.  Poke holes in the film so the flies will enter to get to the liquid but will be hard for them to escape.

Sugar & Vinegar Trap – Mix a small amount of vinegar, sugar and dish detergent and stir evenly.  They are attracted to the sweet and sour smell of sugar and vinegar and the detergent kills them.

Fumigate the Room – Burning an orange peel or dried wormwood will repel fruit flies.

Plants With Strong Scents – Basil, pepper, lavender, clove, lemongrass and mints are offensive to fruit flies and placing these plants in front of windows and doors can help repel them.

Drain Treatments – Vinegar or boiling water down the drains in the kitchen and bathroom sinks will kill the fly eggs and larva that are in the drains.  There is also a good product call BioFoam that works well and keeping drains clean.

If you follow some of these tips and tricks fruit flies will no longer be a persistent problem in your home.  Feel free to give us a call or find us on social media if you need more solutions or advice in treating your own bug issues.  We’re here to help!

Ten Common Texas Pests (With Pictures)

Scorpions

Scorpions are 8-legged arthropods that are close relatives to spiders, ticks, and mites.  They have 8 legs, 2 pincers (pedipalps) and a segmented tail with a bulb-like stinger.  They can sting two different ways, as a warning to humans who invade their space, and a more potent sting for stunning their prey.  Scorpions have very small eyes and poor vision, so they use vibrations and a keen sense of hearing to navigate and find food.  They prefer to feed on live insects like crickets, spiders, centipedes, as well as other insects. They are more prevalent in the Southern United States.

Centipedes

Centipedes are also not insects, but arthropods with a flattened worm-like body with 100 legs.  They have jaws containing venom glands on the first body segment behind the head.  They can range from one inch to over 12 inches depending on the species.  The Texas Red-Headed Centipede is the most scary of the bunch and is a very tough to kill species.  There are also smaller brown centipedes. The house centipede has a grayish-yellow body which is about 1.5 inches long and has 3 stripes running down its back.  It also has white bands around its 15 pairs of legs.

Carpenter Ants & Acrobat Ants

Both carpenter and acrobat ants are all over the Texas Hill Country and are similar in color and shape. Carpenter ants are wood-destroying species which drill or tunnel into wood to make a nest.  They do not actually consume the wood, but just excavate it to house their nest. They are some of the largest ant species in the United States, ranging from 1/4”-1/2” long.  Although they do not sting, they can inflict a painful bite with their wood-destroying mandibles. Evidence of carpenter ants will be ant pieces and dead bodies, sawdust, frass, and/or trailing ants. The main visible difference in carpenter ants and acrobat ants is the larger size of carpenter ants, as well as their larger bulbous tail.

Acrobat ants look like carpenter ants but are smaller (1/8”) and have a heart-shaped tail.  They do not actually destroy wood but take advantage of holes, gaps, cracks, or voids in homes to nest in.  You will sometimes find insulation pulled out of windows or soffit vents where the ants are nesting.  Acrobats tend aphids and feed on the honeydew and protect the aphids with a coarse-fiber carton over the scale insects.  They communicate and travel using pheromone trails, which lets other ants know where the food source is.  If you place a hummingbird feeder close to a tree, you can see the acrobat ants at work following the pheromone trail to the feeder.

Silverfish

Silverfish are small, wingless insects that range in color from silvery to brown due to their fine-scaled bodies. They have a soft body structure and can grow up to 3/4” long. Their shape is elongated and oval, featuring three long tail projections and two long antennae.

Once they reach adulthood, female silverfish continuously lay eggs, potentially exceeding 100 throughout their lifespan. Eggs are deposited either singly or in small clusters within cracks and crevices, hatching within 3 weeks.

Silverfish are general feeders that primarily consume carbohydrates and proteins, such as flour, dried meat, rolled oats, paper, and even glue. They can endure long periods without food—sometimes over a year—but require high humidity (75% to 90%) to thrive. Their preferred temperature range is between 70 and 80°F.

Paper Wasps

Paper wasps measure between 3/4” and 1” in length and have a slender, narrow-waisted appearance, with smoky black wings that fold lengthwise when not in use. Their coloration varies by species: Polistes exclamans is brown with yellow markings on the head, thorax, and abdomen bands, while Polistes carolina is primarily reddish-brown.

It’s important to distinguish paper wasps from yellowjackets and bald-faced hornets. Unlike the latter, paper wasp nests are open and lack a protective covering over the cells.

Nests are frequently found around homes, particularly under eaves, on structures, and in plants. Wasps will defend their nests if disturbed and can sting multiple times. While stings typically cause localized pain and swelling, they can lead to systemic reactions in sensitive individuals, including severe allergic reactions that may be life-threatening. Males do not sting. Despite their aggressive defense of nests, many gardeners view paper wasps as beneficial because they help control insect pests like caterpillars.

Fleas

Adult cat fleas measure about 1/8 inch long (1 to 3 mm), appearing brownish-black and flattened, and they lack wings. Their backward-pointing bristles assist in navigating through the fur or feathers of their hosts, making them hard to remove through grooming. Fleas have six legs, with the hind pair being long and specialized for jumping.

Flea larvae are smaller, measuring less than 1/4 inch long (6 mm), and are legless with a dirty white appearance. They are typically found in the bedding of infested pets.

Cat fleas are the most prevalent type found on dogs and cats. Fleas that feed on rodents can transmit diseases like plague and murine typhus, so it’s advisable to avoid close contact with wild rodents such as squirrels and rats. However, cat fleas themselves do not carry the plague.

American Cockroaches

The American cockroach is the largest species of roach commonly found in homes. They typically inhabit places like restaurants, grocery stores, bakeries, breweries, and pet shops, where food is prepared or stored. These roaches prefer damp environments and can often be found in sewers, basements, heating ducts, and on the lower floors of buildings. They can easily be transported into homes in boxes or items from infested locations. Cockroaches are known to contaminate food, damage wallpaper, books, and clothing, and emit a foul odor. Additionally, they can trigger allergic reactions in some individuals and contaminate food with bacteria that can lead to illnesses like food poisoning, dysentery, or diarrhea. Cockroaches have also been linked to childhood asthma.

Mosquitoes

Adult mosquitoes are approximately 1/4” long, characterized by long legs, clear wings, and a slender body covered in scales. Their heads feature compound eyes, thread-like antennae, and long, slender mouthparts for sucking. Male mosquitoes, which do not bite, can be identified by their very hairy, “feathery” antennae, which help them detect females. The Asian tiger mosquito (Aedes albopictus) was first recorded in Texas in 1985 and is now a common species. It is easily recognized by its black body with white markings and a single white stripe down the middle of its thorax. In contrast, the yellow fever mosquito (Aedes aegypti) has two curved, lyre-shaped stripes on its thorax.

Female mosquitoes bite and can transmit diseases such as malaria, filariasis, and various arthropod-borne viruses, including yellow fever and dengue fever. The saliva injected during feeding causes itching. In Texas, there are about 55 mosquito species, with approximately 170 species found nationwide.

Termites

Subterranean termites are the most destructive wood pests in the U.S., causing billions in damage annually, particularly to homes. While they play a beneficial role in nature by recycling cellulose into nutrients, they pose significant risks when they invade human structures.

These social insects live in soil colonies with three castes: reproductives, workers, and soldiers. Winged primary reproductives, known as swarmers, are about 1/4” to 3/8” long and can be identified by their varying colors and wing patterns. Workers, the most numerous, are wingless and creamy white, responsible for foraging and colony maintenance. Soldiers have larger heads and jaws for defense.

Subterranean termites often enter homes through wood in contact with soil. Signs of infestation include swarmers, mud tubes, and damaged wood. Active infestations can be hard to detect, but signs like mud tubes or wings near windows indicate trouble.

Subterranean termites, including native and Formosan species, are widespread in Texas and require vigilance from homeowners. Regular inspections and preventative measures are essential to mitigate their destructive potential.

Spiders

Since there are thousands of species of spiders, we’ll focus on the dangerous ones!

Black Widow

Black widow spiders are typically shy and prefer hidden, undisturbed areas. Bites usually occur when someone accidentally disturbs them or their webs. Common habitats include outbuildings, garages, cellars, furniture, shrubbery, and areas with high insect activity.

• Generally jet black, though coloration can vary by species.
• The underside of the abdomen features two distinctive reddish triangles.
• Adults measure around 1½ inches long.
• They have eight eyes arranged in two rows.
• Eggs are laid in a loosely woven silk cup.

While less than 5% of bites are fatal, prompt medical attention is advised for severe symptoms.

Brown Recluse

Recluse spiders prefer secluded areas away from human activity, commonly found in closets, basements, attics, and outdoor locations like piles of rocks and leaves. They often hide in shoe boxes, clothing, and furniture. Most bites occur on the hands or feet when handling infested items, as these spiders are nocturnal and feed on insects like silverfish and crickets.

After mating, which can happen between February and October, female recluse spiders lay 40 to 50 eggs in off-white, round silk cases about 1/4 inch in diameter, typically in dark, sheltered spots. The optimal egg-laying period is from May to August. Over their lifespan of one to two years (sometimes up to five), females produce one to five egg sacs.

Be sure to give us a call if you need help controlling any of these Texas pests!  Also check out our other posts to gain more information about the pests listed here.

Wasp Benefits and Facts

Wasps are misunderstood creatures and often invoke fear in those who are allergic to their stings and others who just don’t want to get stung or bothered!  Most wasps do not want to sting and only sting when threatened or when guarding their nest.  Like most other insects and arthropods, they mostly want to find food and water to survive.

There are over 30,000 species of wasps, solitary and social, and they play an important role in the ecosystem. Paper wasps and yellow jackets feed on other insects like caterpillars, beetles, and aphids, reducing the need for pesticides on farms.  They help maintain balance as they are predators for some insects and prey for birds and other insects.  Eliminating wasps would throw off that balance and would result in an increase in what they eat and decrease in animals that feed on them. 

Social wasp species like paper wasps and yellow jackets have a hierarchical structure, with workers, queens and drones performing certain tasks and chores.  Many wasps make nests out of chewed wood fibers, using their saliva to form a lightweight and strong nest.  They communicate using pheromones, or scents to alert the other members of danger or food sources.  If you disturb a nest the wasps will release an attack pheromone that tells the workers to attack the enemy.  Ground hornets like German Yellow Jackets, or Southern Yellow Jackets will attack in droves if disturbed.

One of the more important benefits of wasps is in the role of nature’s decomposers.  Wasps from the family Vespidae break down organic matter and feed on decaying fruits and dead insects.  This helps recycle nutrients back into the soil and maintaining the soil fertility.

There are also parasitic wasps, which lay their eggs on other insects where they feed on the host and control pest populations.  Cicada killer wasps will dig burrows in the ground for their larva to feed on the cicadas.

The largest wasp in the world is the Asian giant hornet (Vespa mandarinia). Native to East Asia, it can reach lengths of up to 2 inches and has a wingspan of around 3 inches. Known for its distinctive yellow and black markings, the Asian giant hornet is notable not only for its size but also for its potent sting, which can be quite painful. These hornets are social insects that live in colonies, and they are primarily predators of other insects, including honeybees.

The smallest wasp in the world is the Megaphragma caribea, a parasitoid wasp which lays its eggs inside the larva of other insects.  It is only 0.14 mm (0.0055 in.) and one of the smallest insects known.  It lives in the Caribbean.

What Are Chiggers? How Do You Get Rid of Them?

Chiggers are so small that they are not visible to the naked eye, but pack a punch when it comes to itching and discomfort!  They are 1/150th of an inch in size and a member of the mite family, known as Trombiculidae.  They are typically in wooded areas and areas with tall grass, but I have encountered them in shorter grasses also.

Chiggers attach to the skin and inject digestive enzymes which break down skin cells which they then feed upon.  Contrary to popular belief, chiggers do not burrow into the skin and do not need to be smothered with nail polish remover.  Soap and water will remove any remaining larva off of the skin.  They also do not feed on blood, but only the skin cells their enzymes break down.  Bites will be found on the ankles up to the pantline.

Chiggers go through four life stages: egg, larva, nymph and adult.  They only feed on humans in the larval stage.  They are more active during the warmer months when humidity is high and temperatures between 77-86 degrees.  Around Canyon Lake, we tend to start getting calls for chiggers in April and as it gets hotter and dryer in the summer they are no longer a problem.  Wet summers like this year (2024) make for a longer chigger season than normal.

How to Get Rid of Chiggers

Showering after being in areas infested with chiggers will wash any larva away.  Wash clothing and bedding that may have been exposed in hot water.  Anti-itch creams with hydrocortisone or calamine lotion will help treat the inflammation and itching that will come after exposure.  Oral histamines can also help with inflammation.  Try not to scratch the affected areas so they will not become infected.

Prevention

Wearing long pants and sleeves, socks and using rubber bands to hold the pants tight against the leg will help prevent larval chiggers from getting to your skin.  You can also tuck pants inside boots to keep your skin covered.  Insect repellent sprays can be applied to skin a clothing to deter the pests from climbing aboard.  Avoid sitting on the ground in rougher terrain areas, like in the woods or the less developed parts of your property.

Keeping grass short and vegetation trimmed will create a less than ideal habitat for chiggers.  Keeping leaf litter removed also helps.

Treatments

Treatment involves using a liquid and granular insecticide to the areas of infestation, which is usually difficult to pinpoint, so I normally do entire yard treatments.  For most customers one service a year will take care of the issue so we just schedule each year when the chiggers appear.

DIY Treatments

You can try the big box store yard insecticides that attach to a hose-end sprayer, but I’ve found these are not very effective and usually don’t have a very high concentration of insecticide.  You might also not be able to reach all areas of the yard with one bottle, or run out of length on your water hose.

As a professional, I can treat over an acre at a time and have enough hose on my sprayer to reach 300 feet and can do it all in 30-45 minutes.  We normally have a very high success rate and customer satisfaction with chigger treatments.

Give us a call if you need help controlling these microscopic itchy buggers!